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A culinary treasure, with a cuisine built around a historic oven, flourishes at the edge of Red Hook

August 15, 2024 Brooklyn Eagle Staff
A warm plate of Montanara (fried pizza). Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
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HAMILTON AVENUE — The Brooklyn Dining Club held its most recent event at Farina, a pizzeria and restaurant with roots in southern Italy and a storefront tucked under the BQE on Hamilton Avenue at the crossroads of Carroll Gardens and Red Hook.

Within the welcoming facade of glass and white brick, in a charming, rustic interior sequestered from the surrounding environs, guests gathered for a four-course meal, paired with beer and wine, curated by Farina’s owner, Brooklyn-born, Italian-raised Michael Turner.

The welcoming exterior of Farina at 338 Hamilton Avenue. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
The welcoming exterior of Farina at 338 Hamilton Avenue. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro

Born in Brooklyn, Turner’s family moved to Italy when he was four years old. He grew up cultivating a sensitivity to the power of fresh ingredients and special attention to grains for all of his baking projects.

The event was hosted by the Eagle’s lead food correspondent and Good Food newsletter co-author, Andrew Cotto.

Pizza Campania hot from the oven. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
Pizza Campania hot from the oven. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro

Prior to each course, Cotto and Turner spoke of the defining aspects of the eatery, including the oven that dates back to 1865; the four ancient Sicilian grains among the seven used in the flour; the careful sourcing of local and imported ingredients, and the irregular shape and unique texture of the pizzas that are baked more like bread due to the low oven temperature.

“The built-in oven attracted me to create a restaurant in this space,” said Turner. “Going back to 1865, this might be one of the oldest brick ovens in New York City… at one point in its history, it was used to cure tobacco leaves.”

Pizza Maker Anthony rotating an "irregolare" in Farina's oven that dates back to 1856. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
Pizza Maker Anthony rotating an “irregolare” in Farina’s oven that dates back to 1856. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro

Today, Turner uses the oven for the unique, slow-cooked recipes that have become his specialty.

The courses served were:

Montanara — fried pizza topped with San Marzano tomatoes, basil, Parmigiano Reggiano and extra virgin olive oil.

Pasta Scarpiello — fresh tonnarelli pasta, baby tomatoes from Vesuvius, Parmigiano Reggiano, Pecorino Romano, basil and extra virgin olive oil.

The beverage menu at Farina includes craft beers imported from Italy. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
The beverage menu at Farina includes craft beers imported from Italy. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro

Pizza Campania — housemade Fior di latte, fresh mushrooms, garlic, parsley, black truffle cream and salted ricotta.

The first two courses were paired with either Montepulciano d’Abruzzo (red) or Coda di Volpe (white) wine.

Another unique aspect of the evening was the pairing of an Italian beer with the pizza course. Tom Pavlich of B. United International, Inc., an importer of superior beverages from around the world, provided a coveted pilsner from Birrificio Italiano along with tasting notes and an explanation of the brewing process.

Pizza Campania was part of the tasting menu for the Brooklyn Dining Club.  Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro
Pizza Campania was part of the tasting menu for the Brooklyn Dining Club. Brooklyn Eagle photo by Ximena Del Cerro

The final course was tiramisu and coffee.

“It was an absolute pleasure to be able to share what we do at Farina,” said Turner.

Throughout the evening, as members of the Brooklyn Dining Club enjoyed Farina’s hospitality, a steady flow of regular customers — almost like members of a club — came and went with smiles on their faces.


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