Andrew Cotto reveals the secrets of food writing and signs of a good Italian restaurant

Will speak to Brooklyn Dining Club March 27 at Brooklyn’s Sociale

March 22, 2024 Alice Gilbert
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Tell me about yourself and the many things that you do.

I’m a novelist and journalist as well as the Editor-in-Chief of two publications: Appetito: Italian Food & Drink (which I co-founded) and Italian America magazine (the official publication of the Order Sons & Daughters of Italy in America). 

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You recently gave a talk entitled “Italian Food as My Muse.” Can you tell me a bit about why Italian food inspires you? What got you interested in it in the first place? 

I guess Italian food, when taken into full consideration, does the things I want to accomplish as a writer, which is fostering wellness and community, an appreciation for the blessings that are available to us. It didn’t occur to me that Italian food was a centerpiece of my work until my agent at the time pointed it out to me. 

 

You’re the Editor-In-Chief of Appetito Magazine, an online publication about Italian food. Tell me more about this and how it’s different from the food writing you’ve done in the past? 

I love Appetito, and I’m so proud of what we’ve accomplished in such a short time. It’s a lot different, though, being on the publishing side of things as opposed to just being a writer. My partner does a lot of the heavy lifting on the back end, and I’m more out front and dealing with contributors, but I’m still cropping pictures and writing captions and trying to find the way to turn that damn SEO smiley face green … That said, I’m also fully immersed in the Italian food scene with gravitas here and in Italy. Those perks and relationships are worth the minutiae of running a website.

 

You’ve written extensively for publications like The New York Times, Brooklyn Magazine, Rolling Stone, Men’s Journal, Parade, Condé Nast Traveler, Italy magazine, the Good Men Project and, of course, The Brooklyn Eagle, as well as your own novels. Writing for these types of publications, especially about food, is kind of the dream job. What advice would you give to aspiring food writers?

Andrew Cotto at Cinghiale
Andrew Cotto at Cinghiale.

I have to remind myself of the “dream job” part because it really is fortunate to eat really well and travel in luxury as part of a job. I’ve eaten places and stayed in places that are hard to fathom. If this is your dream, I suggest reading a lot of magazines that cover food and/or travel to get a sense of how the content is presented and then pitch based on what you believe the publication is looking for. I’d also recommend a day job since the real pay is in the perks, not the publishing.

 

Your work doesn’t stop at writing. You’re constantly making TV appearances and giving in-person talks. How have you made the jump from editorial to in-person work? 

I’m among the most extroverted writers I’ve ever met. I also really like (most) people. My previous career was in sales, and my most recent vocation was as a professor of English for 15 years. I loved teaching, and I was really able to hone my skills for extemporaneous interaction, being in front of 25 kids three times a day, three or four days a week. Being quick-witted and outgoing makes for great TV and conversation. I’ve done lots of NYC TV and have been the guest on some prestigious podcasts and “lives.” I also just launched what I hope to be an “In Conversation” series at the 92 Y, where I was able to interview one of my favorite rock stars. I’m really looking to get in front of the camera in a recorded fashion, and I’ve been dabbling in that. I want to be Stanley-Tucci-meets-Anthony-Bourdain.

 

New York is saturated — dare I say oversaturated — with Italian restaurants. As an Italian food expert, what signals to you that one is better than others?

The holy trinity: Ingredients, service, ambiance. Basically, I like places where the food is great, the room has a vibe and the owners/staff don’t make you feel like you’re lucky to be there (but the other way around).

 

If you could only eat one element of Italian food (pasta, pizza, panini, etc.) for the rest of your life, what would it be?

Cotoletta alla Milanese (a pan-fried veal cutlet) with a zesty arugula/tomato/onion salad. I never grow tired of this simple perfection. 

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