Talking 7 Fishes with Brooklyn’s Daniel Paterna
Daniel Paterna is considered the “Pope of South Slope” (by me) due to his decades-long presence in the neighborhood in general and at local Italian eateries in particular. These days, his unofficial headquarters is Flora, a caffe/ristorante/alimentari on the corner of 11th Street and 8th Avenue. The young owners are from Campania, and Paterna, of Neapolitan descent, appreciates the authenticity of their regional cuisine. The cuisine that Paterna was raised on, though, was very much of the Italian-American variety proudly served in the ethnic enclave of Bensonhurst where he grew up.
His passion for not just the food of his upbringing but also the culture and community in nourishment is on full display in his book, The Feast of Seven Fishes: A Brooklyn Italian’s Recipes Celebrating Food & Family (powerHouse Books, 2019). In hardcover only and at a whopping 255 pages, this hefty tome, formidable enough to pound cutlets, features 60 recipes for all seasons, but it’s not just a cookbook.
It’s also a memoir and a neighborhood chronicle and a tribute to local purveyors, all enhanced by Paterna’s talents as a photographer, creative director and archivist. That said, for my purposes here “at Brooklyn Tables,” it’s all about the food. In fact, since we are publishing this week’s column on the eve of Christmas Eve, I went to Flora in South Slope to talk seven fishes with the Pope.