Smith Street finally gets a regional Italian restaurant
COBBLE HILL — This reporter remembers when Smith Street was a no-no. There was one restaurant worth going to, and you went early and ate fast. It’s hard to imagine the veritable restaurant row that Smith Street has become this century, a smorgasbord of cuisines in a carousel of openings and closings. Historically missing from this gastronomic landscape, surprisingly enough, is regional Italian cuisine, though this has changed, in a big way — thanks to a non-restaurateur with a mission — with the recent arrival of Savelli, a restaurant, bar and brick oven pizza place at 195 Smith St.
Savelli’s owner, Dominic Palumbo, is a classic example of the American Dream. At 11 years old, he immigrated with his father to Brooklyn from Reggio Calabria, leaving the rest of the family in Italy. While the father struggled to make ends meet, the young Palumbo dropped out of school and went to work at a fruit and vegetable stand in Bensonhurst. He continued working, hard and well, around the borough throughout his adolescence, saving enough money to eventually buy his own produce market and soon invested in real estate as a young man. Let’s just say that Palumbo did well enough in his real estate endeavors over the subsequent decades to open an Italian restaurant as a service to the community.
“I come from the south of Italy,” Palumbo said. “I know the way the food’s supposed to taste, and what I’ve found around here was not even close.”