A staycation at Ace Hotel Brooklyn

February 4, 2023 Andrew Cotto

The Isaiah Zagar mosaic at As You Are. Photo: Andrew Cotto.

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One of the things I love most about travel, after exploring the food and drink of the area, are hotels. It’s an imperative part of the experience, and I put serious value into the quality of the accommodations as it informs so much of the trip. Some of my favorite places to stay while traveling in America are Ace Hotels. I’ve had glorious experiences at their locations in New Orleans (both the Ace and their sister hotel, Maison de la Luz) and in Los Angeles. When I decided on a “staycation” in Brooklyn, there was no other choice than the Ace Hotel Brooklyn. Of course, as said, food and drink are my priority when traveling (even in my own city), so the emphasis was on the Ace’s in-house eatery, As You Are, where I would have dinner one night and brunch the next day (while thoroughly immersing in all of the hotel offerings in between meals).

The short rib burger at As You Are. Photo: Andrew Cotto.

The hotel, at 252 Schermerhorn St. (on the corner of Bond), beams among the bland surroundings with it’s hive-like lanterns above the entrance, beckoning the stylish with their golden-glow to this refurbished, 13-floor mecca of wood and art, glass and steel among the original concrete. The expansive interior is full of soul and hospitality with a DJ, funky art and a friendly staff. Stained wood dominates, especially the bar area with ceiling beams among the cement foundations, with lots of places to lounge in groups or in intimacy among the wooden tables and low lights.

Amongst bright lights is a garden adjacent to the bar, full of flora and more artwork (lots of art in the house). The 285 rooms vary from studios to suites and are extensions of the public spaces, eclectic confluences of modern swank and comfort. The whole building feels like they bottled the best of 21st century Brooklyn and poured it over a dated foundation.

This contemporary Brooklyn ethos extends to the eatery, As You Are. Open daily from 8:00 a.m. to 11:00 p.m. for breakfast, lunch or brunch and dinner, the vast space, between the pastry station in front and the bar in back, continues the stained-wood motif on panels and walls. The 135 seats can be had at murky green banquettes or upon wood-backed chairs by wood-topped tables under glass pendant lights. Funky, colorful artwork abounds with the centerpiece being a massive mosaic by Isaiah Zagar that dominates the room with its pizzazz and cheeky swagger.

Bucatini cacio e pepe with caramelized cauliflower & Radiatore with octopus mezcal ragu. Photo: Andrew Cotto

The menu from Executive Chef Michael King, in its entirety, with an emphasis on local ingredients, covers cuisines that represent the borough’s domestic and international palates. From bagels to bucatini cacio e pepe, pancakes to poussin peri peri, it’s a gourmet smorgasbord that rivals the local food halls in breadth and depth and quality. Many of the most popular items, such as pan roasted arctic char or the short rib burger (served on a fluffy, house-made English muffin!) can be had on multiple menus. There’s also original cocktail and mocktail offerings, along with a globe-spanning wine list. All in all, As You Are reminds me of a gourmand’s dream diner, with long hours and an array of delectable options within friendly confines.

So, “At Brooklyn Tables” ventured beyond the table this week, and this was done, well, for fun, but also to recognize that hospitality in our borough is not exclusive to restaurants. Taking in the eateries of Brooklyn while remaining under the same roof can add an additional aspect of pleasure while further helping our hospitality industry as a whole. Next time you’re thinking about heading out of town for the weekend, try a “Staycation” at the Ace Hotel Brooklyn. In the meantime, visit As You Are for any meal, any time, any day of the week.

Andrew Cotto has been eating his way through Brooklyn for 25 years. As an author, the food of our borough has been featured extensively in his novels and journalism. In his new column for the Daily Eagle, Andrew will tell the tales of Brooklyn eateries, from the people behind the food to the communities which they nourish.