National food critic seeks out calzones, ends up on a tour around Brooklyn
Ops at 346 Himrod St. © 2018 Google
Bill Addison, national food critic for Eater, started the summer with a simple goal: find the best calzone in New York. He ended up on a tasting tour of Brooklyn’s pizza parlors, from Lucali in Carroll Gardens (the pizza, “incredible;” the calzone “tart-sweet”) to Wheated in Prospect Park (“an unexpected letdown”) to, of course, Williamsburg’s iconic Roberta’s. After eating about two dozen calzones, he reached his verdict. The best calzone in New York can be found at Ops in Bushwick, a cozy pizzeria with mixed woods, mottled brick and, according to Addison, a calzone whose every element “clicked into equilibrium.”
For those curious about what the perfect calzone tastes like, Ops is located at 346 Himrod St., and is open for dinner Tuesday through Sunday until midnight, with lunch starting at noon on the weekends.
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