Business

DINING OUT: Grand Central Oyster Bar Brooklyn

July 7, 2014 Heather Chin

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Walk into Grand Central Oyster Bar Brooklyns Fifth Avenue restaurant and youd be forgiven for feeling a bit of déjà vu. If youve ever dined at the restaurants space on the lower level of Grand Central Terminal in Manhattan, youll recognize the red-and-white checkered napkins, the black-and-white tiles, the giant chandelier in the main dining room, the homage to the cavernous arches, and the distinctive and playful font used for the sign out front.

Its an iconic New York restaurant, opened in 1913 and [reimagined to great success in] 1974, said Brooklyn manager Michael Slimmer. We have fresh fish every day, no subgenre [of cuisine] and we will sell only certain things at certain times. Well run out of items and thats part of the appeal.

Unique to the Brooklyn location is the presence of a fresh fish market in an adjoining space, for DIY diners who are inspired to try their hand at recreating their meal at home.

The dinner and drinks menus change daily depending on the catch, although popular cooked standbys such as Gulf Shrimp Cocktail ($15.95), New England and Manhattan Clam Chowders ($7.95), oyster/shrimp/Ipswich clam/lobster Stews ($10.95-$18.95) and Panroasts ($11.45-$19.45), Crab Cakes with fries and cole slaw ($24.95) and Linguini with Seafood (ask your server) are always on hand.

On the raw side, explore the rotating selection of raw oysters ($1.95~$3); we enjoyed the firmness of Giga Cups from Washington State, as well as the lightly salty/fresh taste of the gigantic Naked Cowboys from Fire Island and the light and creamy Shigokus from British Columbia.

You also cant go wrong with the clams ($1.35-$1.45), shellfish platters (mixes of oysters, clams, shrimp and crab legs; $17.95-$35), and cooked shellfish ($13.95+)the latter which includes an addictive, simply dressed Maine Lobster Roll ($20.95) and savory Fried Bluepoint Oysters ($14.95).

Among the appetizers ($5.95+), the delightful Fish Taco ($5.95) features lightly battered and fried fishmahi mahi on our visitrolled inside a tortilla along with cilantro, diced tomato, shredded cabbage and carrots, all perfect for dipping in the housemade mojo aioli.

Dont overlook the salads ($7.95+) either; there is a regular Caesar Salad with shrimp and jumbo lump crabmeat ($19.95) and a rotating salad that could one day be the best Crispy Calamari weve had, served on a bed of cucumbers, carrots, arugula and sesame soy vinaigrette and another day be a colorful Seared Tuna Nicoise with hard-boiled egg, Kalamata olives, tomato, haricot vert, potatoes and mixed greens.

Although the starters make a fine meal on their own, the entrees are standouts, their seasonal nature bringing out the best creativity and flavors from the cooks imaginations. The whole Idaho Rainbow Trout, tender and stuffed with jumbo lump crab over Himalayan red rice and ratatouille ($21.95) is an example of what Grand Central can do with a fresh catch. Similarly, the huge and intensely flavored Coconut Shrimp with a pineapple reduction, jasmine rice and steamed asparagus ($19.95) is just one of the ways they prepare shrimp in a unique way.

Every meal opens with a basket of amazingly warm biscuits and crisp flatbread. We suggest that every meal ends with one of their desserts ($5.95+), as well. One favorite is the Blackberry Napoleon ($7.95), a lightly sweet concoction of crispy phyllo and fresh blackberries, topped with a scoop of sorbet.

Pair it all with simple bourbon or whiskey (for the oysters), a tall glass of Brooklyn Summer Ale ($7.50), or one of the many wines, beers and cocktails, and youre set for what is sure to be a grand experience in great seafood dining.

Grand Central Oyster Bar Brooklyn

254 Fifth Avenue

347-294-0596

http://oysterbarbrooklyn.com

Sunday-Thursday: 11:30 a.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday-Saturday: 11:30 a.m. to 11 p.m.

Weekend brunch: 11 a.m. to 3 p.m.