Dining Out: Taste is express at Station

October 9, 2013 Heather Chin
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BY DENISE ROMANO AND HEATHER J. CHIN

The last time we grabbed a seat at Station, located right off the Bedford Avenue L subway station, it had just had its soft opening and featured a comfortable open-air classiness with a menu of intriguing globally-inspired flavors.

Now, just over a year later, with a new seating layout and a new chef, the train has pulled further into the station, with the enjoyable dining experience transforming into an even better one, thanks to the attention to detail coming out of the kitchen and on the part of the friendly wait staff.

Chef Chad Johnson, formerly of Aqua Grill and Ono, describes Station’s new menus as “American bistro with French influences” and “rustic, but not sloppy.” Ingredients are fresh, dishes are imaginative and playful, there is a vegan menu available, and brunch is available daily—although weekend brunch “gets a little fancier.”

Start with a salad; any will do. The Shaved Fennel and Pear Salad ($12) tasted hearty, smoky and woodsy, featuring arugula, crumbles of goat cheese, candied walnuts and a balsamic reduction. Like everything else on the menu, the portion was deceivingly large and the flavors were detectable individually, yet blended harmoniously.

Another signature salad, the Roasted Beet ($12), consists of lightly sweet roasted red and yellow beets, grapefruit, mint, olive oil, salt, pepper and ricotta—which can be substituted as a vegan option, upon request.

We really enjoyed the Mussels ($14 per dish and $19 for unlimited refills), which are served steamed and come with grilled toast and a choice of sauces: tomato coconut, white wine and garlic, a “richer” dijonnaise, and a “bit spicier” green curry. We had the white wine and garlic variety. The mussels were warm, fresh, and practically fell out of the shells; the broth was rich, buttery and comforting. We wish we had some pasta along with the toast to soak it all up.

The Pan Seared Scallops ($24) left us speechless. The buttery diver scallops were served with a heavenly butternut squash puree, Brussels sprouts, sage brown butter and pumpkin seeds. All we could say was, “Wow.” The flavors danced on the tongue with vigor. Hats off to the chef!

The Long Island Duck Two Ways ($25) was also top-notch, featuring duck confit and red curry seared duck breast, served with fig compote and citrus braised fennel in a balsamic reduction. The duck was cooked perfectly and was rich, slightly salty and sweet. The sweetness of the compote and tartness of the fennel complemented each other surprisingly well. Note that this dish also tastes just as good reheated a day later.

For dessert, we had the Pear and Mascarpone Crepes ($8) served with caramel sauce. It was very fruity, warm and comforting with delicate crepes, and a soft and sweet filling.

Station has a happy hour seven days a week, from 4 p.m. to 7 p.m. Beer is $4 per bottle and a glass of house white, red or rose is $5. The staff is looking at expanding the cocktail menu soon.

You can also join them every day for brunch from 9 a.m. to 5 p.m. A bottomless brunch is available each day for $35, which includes two hours of unlimited mimosas or Bloody Marys (made with the chef’s homemade mix) with an entrée. On weekends, look out for specials like stuffed French Toast and seasonal pancakes.

As Johnson says, come to Station, “because it will be a good beginning and end to any trip to Williamsburg.”

 

Station

166 North 7th Street

718-599-1596

www.stationnyc.com

 

Breakfast, brunch, and lunch served until 5 p.m.

Dinner served 5 p.m. to 12 p.m.

Late night 12 a.m. to 4 a.m.

Open seven days a week

Delivery until 4 a.m.

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