It’s a “party in your mouth” at Piramide

March 26, 2013 Denise Romano
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Experience bright, bold flavors that dance in harmony at Piramide.

Although it’s been open on Fifth Avenue in Park Slope for six years, last August Jessica Mora took over, hiring a new chef, Joyce Brandes.

“We are taking ingredients normally found in American cuisine and doing something Latin with them,” Mora explained, adding that only fresh ingredients are used. “It’s like a party in your mouth.”

Mora said that she got rid of “clutter” in the space, including a video game machine, and tried to make it elegant, yet inviting.  And she did.

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Our meal started with complimentary salsa and chips. The chips are homemade, perfectly crisped and not salted. The salsa had small chunks of tomato, onion and parsley that tasted, oh, so fresh.

We then had Guacamole ($11) prepared tableside and served in a stone animal-shaped molcajete –this time we had a dog. It had a great consistency and tasted creamy and fresh, with just the right amount of spices. They were served with homemade corn tortilla and the chef recommended we make guac tacos. Ole!

Both of us enjoyed a cocktail, since it was Saturday night. One of us had the Cactus Pear Margarita ($12), which was made with prickly pear pureed with water and PacQui Tequila Silvera, a cousin of tequila with a smoky smooth taste, more like whiskey.

The other enjoyed the Flor de Jamaica Margarita ($12) made with hibiscus flower, boiled with sugar, triple sec and Pacqui Silver. It was a bit sweeter than the other and delightfully complimented each bite.

Our starter was a chef’s special, Duck Confit Flautas (ask server for price), which consisted of duck confit rolled in a corn tortilla and slightly fried, served with salsa fresca, chili relleno and crema. It was savory and tasted spicy but cool at the same time.

Then we enjoyed the Ensalada Ciruelo y Manzano ($5, add steak, chicken or shrimp for $3 extra) made up of fresh plums, Manzano peppers, jicama, red onions, goat cheese and toasted pumpkin seeds with a tamarind vinaigrette. The flavors were completely different with an explosion of textures: creamy, nutty and crunchy.

We then sampled some Soft Tacos ($2 each) made on homemade tortillas. The chicken simply had spicy salsa on top. With the moist, tender meat, it did not need much else. The tilapia was grilled to perfection and served with pickled turnips. The steak was juicy and delicious, made with onions and parsley. The pork taco took the cake. It featured tender, pulled pork with pickled cabbage and an amazing tangerine, sriracha chipotle sauce. Need we say more?

Then we tried the Enchiladas Tres Colores ($17) which “explores different flavors without having to order a bunch of different things,” explained Mora. The Enchilada with Suiza Sauce was filled with spinach, mushrooms, cauliflower and roasted red pepper. The Salsa Roja Enchilada was filled with fresh shrimp in a creamy tomato sauce. The Mole Enchilada was made Puebla style, with chicken. The earthy tones of the mole were not overwhelming.

Somehow, we had room for Molten Chocolate Cake ($5) made with high-grade, 78 percent cacao chips and a dash of chipotle topped with a dollop of fresh whipped cream and drizzled dulce de leche.  It was warm and gooey inside, but not too rich.

With jazz every Thursday night from 7 to 9 p.m. and a $14 Sunday brunch, which includes a cocktail, we keep finding more reasons to re-visit Piramide.



499 Fifth Avenue


Tuesday through Thursday, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.

Friday and Saturday, 1 p.m. to 11 p.m.

Sunday, 1 p.m. to 10 p.m.

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