Nonna Adelina’s Cooking Comes To Greenpoint

September 26, 2012 Editorial Staff

BROOKLYN MEDIA GROUP/Photos by Heather J. Chin

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Nonna Adelina’s name and recipes have crossed the Atlantic with the opening of her grandson’s restaurant on Greenpoint Avenue and they are worth every bite and visit.

Owner and chef Toby Buggiani serves simple and delicious Italian favorites, such as Pizza Fritta Montanara (fried pizza) and Penne Sud.

Owner and chef Toby Buggiani was six years-old when he moved to the United States from Rome, Italy, and after managing restaurants in Manhattan, decided to move to Clinton Hill with his wife Alexandria this past July, securing their new apartment on the same day that they opened Adelina’s – a cozy, sun-filled spot that radiates friendliness in every wall painting, glass of wine, cup of coffee, and simply yet tastefully plated dish.

“I love the community feeling here,” said Buggiani of Greenpoint and Brooklyn. “I’m so happy to be out of Manhattan.”

The atmosphere at Adelina’s is definitely not Manhattan, with sections of its walls lovingly painted by Buggiani’s father, Paolo, a well-regarded street artist in both his native Italy and New York. Although a small space, there is plenty of seating at polished wooden tables and at the L-shaped bar, behind which sits an espresso machine, coffee beans from Brooklyn Roasting Company, beer on tap, and casks of wine with chalkboards listing prices and descriptions of the seasonal libations. There are also decks of Italian playing cards and a small photo of Adelina with her family.

Pizza Fritta Montanara (fried pizza) and Penne Sud. — Pizza Fritta (fried pizza) and Penne Sud.

The recipes have been collected over time and are as simple and rustic as they are delicious. The Fried Pizza is one of the restaurant’s signature dishes, inspired by the popular dish in Naples, and given a slight tweak here at Adelina’s. There are four types to choose from: mozzarella & basil ($7), arugula & olives ($7), mozzarella & sopressata ($9), and mozzarella & pesto ($9).

We opted for the specialty mozzarella and pesto pizza fritta and it blew our taste buds away! The garden-fresh basil in the pesto, sourced locally and also grown in a small container garden in front of the store, was mouthwatering. The pizza was not too greasy, either, which we did not expect, and the crust was lightly crispy and stable enough to hold the ingredients. Perfect for two (or even one if your stomach can take it).

Another Italian classic on the menu is the Fagioli Al Ucelleto ($7) – a hearty bowl of fresh cannellini beans, sage and tomato that practically melts in your mouth with every bite, and should be shared as it is quite filling and could be a meal unto itself.

The Bruschetta with porcini and crimini mushrooms bathed in truffle oil.

Under the pasta options ($9), you have a choice of whole wheat or gluten free, NORD: Pesto, Potato and String Bean or SUD: Tomato, Pine Nut, Raisin, and Fennel. We tried the Sud, which included crunchy bread crumbs on top. This made the dish a delicious mix of flavors, which was apparently also approved by three groups of native Italians who visited the restaurant earlier in the month, and complimented the menu. “Si mangia bene!” they said, meaning “you eat well” – this is considered the biggest praise to any Italian.

For slightly lighter fare, Adelina’s bruschetta also hits the spot. There is the Semplice ($2), Capers and Oregano ($4), and Porcini and Cremini with Parsley and Truffle Oil ($6). This last option came as generous servings of chopped and deliciously oiled up mushrooms atop slices of freshly baked bread. They are so good that they will vanish into your mouth too quickly to count bites.

Last, but not least, Adelina’s sole dessert, the Crème Brulee ($3) is a smooth, creamy end to a meal, especially when paired with a glass of wine, which Buggiani and his staff are more than willing to suggest a pairing for.

The wine and beer offerings are for connoisseurs and casual drinkers alike.

For example, he suggests a Spanish red called Grenactte for the Pizza Fritta Pesto, and the Rhone Blend with the Bruschetta Cremini. Glasses of wine sell at a reasonable price ranging from $5 to $8.

“I hope it becomes community-inspired, making wine more accessible to people,” he remarked. His wine tap restaurant is “made so anybody could have it,” because he feels that other wine bars around the city are over-priced, and feel prohibited.

It is an impressively casual yet well-organized operation that Buggiani says he hopes will develop further with a gradually refined menu that changes seasonally, incorporating items such as onions, broccoli and potatoes for the fall.

Reporting contributed by Heather J. Chin.

ADELINA’S

159 Greenpoint Avenue

www.adelinasbk.com

Cash Only. Free WiFi.

Open weekdays from 4 p.m. to midnight; Weekends from 11 a.m. to midnight