DINING OUT: La Sorrentina

May 25, 2012 Helen Klein

The Tricolor Shrimp was a treat for both the palate and the eye.

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Area residents already know La Sorrentina for its top-notch Italian food. Now, they can get to know it for steaks and seafood as well.

The eatery which began as a pizzeria 25 years ago and expanded into a full-service restaurant 13 years ago recently broadened its offerings to include 21-day dry-aged Angus beef and a wide range of fish and shellfish sourced from its own fish market across the street.

Now you can get three things in one, noted owner John Mazzola, who has been in the food industry for some 45 years.

The quality of the food served at the family-run restaurant is a matter of pride to Mazzola and the other members of the family who work at La Sorrentina. So quality-conscious are they that they serve house-made mozzarella, freshly baked bread (crusty and chewy, just the way good bread is supposed to be) and even home-made sausage.

Everything I tasted was excellent, flavorful and well-textured. The Mozzarella in Carrozza appetizer ($8) featured triangles of creamy fresh mozzarella in a light and crispy egg batter, accompanied by a lemon wedge and bright-flavored tomato sauce for contrast.

The homemade Gnocchi alla Vodka ($16) was outstanding the tender, plump pillows of dough robed in an unctuous, bright orange sauce and garnished with basil leaves.

Another highlight was the 24-ounce T-bone steak ($42), which came out fragrant and sizzling on a bed of grilled onion slices. The preparation was simple yet elegant; the portion was copious. Steak here compares to what you can get at a big steakhouse in Manhattan, stressed Mazzola.

The Tricolor Shrimp ($22) a special that is frequently on offer at the restaurant features tail-on shrimp with chunks of artichokes, sun dried tomatoes and asparagus in a light butter sauce. Its both colorful and delectable, as well as supremely satisfying.

For a side dish, I tried the Broccoli Rabe ($10). I was served a huge plate towering with the slightly bitter emerald greens, sautéed with garlic, that was perfectly al dente and definitely addictive.

For the grand finale, I sampled the Italian Cheesecake ($6). Moist and rich, but not cloyingly sweet, the ricotta-based dessert, garnished with fresh whipped cream, left me sated and smiling.

You cant say better than that.

LA SORRENTINA

6524 11^th Avenue

Brooklyn NY 11219

718-680-9299

11 a.m. to 11 p.m., seven days a week

Three private rooms; parties up to 80 people accommodated

Catering available

BROOKLYN MEDIA GROUP/Photo by Helen Klein